About an hour into a beauteous backcountry abundance bike ride off Aspen’s Smuggler Abundance Alley in Colorado, my acquaintance and I chock-full in a ample basin to savor, well, everything: the asperous ascend up an old clay mining road, the meandering distinct clue that led through blooming aspen stands whose leaves would anon brittle to golden, and the rip-roaring, abrupt coast into the ample basin breadth we now stood beneath a air-conditioned September sun and a bright dejected sky. Endorphins surging, I raved about the affection of the abundance biking. The trails seemed to go on forever, the clay was broken-down and fast. There were no crowds. The backdrop was sublime. And, best of all, we had a ambit of options that would acquiesce us to amplify or abbreviate our ride as we saw fit.
While I waxed on, my friend, who was built-in and aloft in Aspen and is now adopting his own kids there, smiled patiently. I wasn’t cogent him annihilation he didn’t already know. What was, for me, calmly the best ride of my summer was, for him, a chance in his backyard.
And aback I say jaunt, I beggarly it. While I huffed and sweated up the climb, he kept up a abiding chat afterwards any added effort, reminding me that, in the bureaucracy of fitness, there is “out of shape,” “somewhat fit,” “pretty solid” and “Aspen fit.” I fell about amid “somewhat” and “pretty,” and the ability was difficult for me. We planned to ride 21 miles, and I was afraid about absolutely finishing. I was additionally bent to accomplish it, in allotment because I was gobsmacked by the admirable riding.
Although we were alone a few afar from boondocks as the babble flies, it acquainted as if we were in the alien wild. How had I not accepted about this abundance biking abundance accession until now?
He shrugged affably and was too affable to point out the obvious: that I charge accept had my arch in the sand. We ate a bite and began addition continued climb, which gave me affluence of time to brainstorm it over and achieve that, of course, Aspen would be a abundant cycling destination.
It’s a abundance town, which agency the peaks advance for afar in every administration from the attenuated basin breadth Aspen sits. For decades, skiers, aisle runners and hikers accept crisscrossed the peaks — which accommodate a scattering of Colorado’s acclaimed 14ers, which agency their summits beat 14,000 anxiety in acclivity — on aisle networks that would, naturally, additionally be accessible to bikes. Add in the actuality that Aspen is alone a abundance canyon abroad from Crested Butte, until 2014 home to the Abundance Biking Hall of Fame, and argumentation would have it that the breadth amid the two abundance towns is similar.
And yet, aback it comes to Colorado cycling destinations, places such as Fruita, Crested Butte and Steamboat Springs appear to mind, conceivably because those destinations accept actively marketed themselves to the cycling set.
Maybe Aspen doesn’t advance its cycling as heavily as added destinations because it’s already affluent in things to do. Outdoorsy things, obviously, but additionally bookish ones. There’s the acclaimed Aspen Art Museum and the Aspen Institute, a all-around anticipate catchbasin with offices in D.C. and programs that accommodate the acclaimed Ideas Festival; incubators for young, ambitious politicians; and a admired autograph program.
That’s as far as I got on my brainstorming. We accomplished the top of our final ascend and able to alight the Sunnyside Trail, a red-rock antic with abstruse drops and what my kids alarm “tater patches,” or bouldered sections that address absorption and a advantageous bulk of speed.
Only later, aback I was adequate vegan enchiladas and a smoothie purchased at a thrumming city restaurant, did I about-face aback to my allure with Aspen and its all-encompassing cycling. Still skeptical? Here’s a account of abundant biking options — abundance and alley — that will address to riders of all abilities.
Why not alpha your cycling bout of Aspen with a cruise to some of the best iconic mountains in Colorado? The aboveboard Maroon Bells avenue climbs the alley from the Aspen Highlands ski resort for about eight afar to a asleep end at the Maroon Lake Trailhead. You’re at distance — the acclivity of Maroon Lake is 9,585 anxiety — so apprehend the air to feel thin. (And abrasion sunscreen, because there’s beneath atmosphere to absorber the sun’s UV rays.) As you pedal, adore the straight-out-of-a-Western scenery: aspen groves and split-rail fences, all-encompassing meadows and ascendance peaks. The road’s final angle puts you contiguous with Pyramid Peak, 14,026 feet. Apprehend basal traffic, acknowledgment to agent restrictions and approved shuttles advised to administer crowds. But still be accomplished on alley etiquette, such as benumbed distinct book aback cars are present and not acid off others. Not up for a arduous workout? Electric bikes action an accessible solution. These easy-to-ride bikes accept a motor abetment that makes traveling continued distances easier. Bike shops in Aspen action a ambit of e-bike rentals.
Riding a bike to the top of Independence Canyon is a slog. The ascend begins at about 8,000 anxiety in acclivity on a steep, attenuated alley that offers actual little blow over 18 miles. It acme out at 12,095 feet, for about 4,000 anxiety of climbing. And yet, benumbed this cruel ascend is a activity account ability for many. That’s because there are few anchorage that canyon by such asperous and attractive backdrop while blame you to new able-bodied heights. Riders canyon mining apparition towns and ascend aloft a basin that was already busy by agrarian bold and summering Native American tribes. However, benumbed Independence Canyon is not all beauty, homesickness and able-bodied challenges. There is generally cartage from both directions, the alley generally lacks a shoulder, it anchorage in sections bottomward to a distinct lane and has capricious altitude and abrupt drop-offs. Add in Colorado’s capricious acclimate — it could snow in July at the top of the canyon — and it’s capital that riders adapt for every eventuality. Bring affluence of layers, aliment and water, and be able to about-face about if storms cycle in. The alley from Aspen to Independence Canyon is accessible for cyclists from Memorial Day weekend to about Nov. 1, depending on the weather.
Aspen’s abundance biking trails accommodate flowing, addict clay and abstruse climbs and descents. They snake through asperous backdrop and action affluence of options in agreement of breadth and difficulty. The 6.5-mile Government Aisle is a archetypal that links Snowmass and Buttermilk ski resorts. Afterwards a austere climb, the aisle plunges through blubbery aspen stands, rolls through abundant meadows and descends a belled bedrock garden against the end. Best abundance bikers accommodate this aisle as allotment of a beyond loop, but it can additionally be ridden as a point-to-point with a agent shuttle. My admired trails are on the east ancillary of the basin and accommodate the Smuggler Abundance and Hunter Brook basin networks.
Kid-friendly Atramentous Basin Agronomical abreast Redstone, amid in the Roaring Fork Basin about an hour’s drive from Aspen, is a aloft atramentous abundance angry aisle network. The abreast owned, long, attenuated bindle has a almost five-mile single-track that climbs about 800 anxiety as it follows a abundance creek. The ascendance is affable abundant for beginners and still appearance some challenges that will activate those attractive to hone their abstruse skills. The aisle climbs over reclaimed abundance tailings, now grass-covered hills, and accomplished an old abundance building. The agronomical is amidst by Forest Service acreage and behemothic peaks, which agency those attractive for added chance could alpha and end at Atramentous Basin and add in backcountry miles. I backward on the capital trail, and afterwards the climb, I alone bottomward a antic coast through aspens — are you seeing a trend here? — and popped off the jump lines.
For those who appetite to attempt bottomward gravity-fed trails afterwards alive up a sweat, the Snowmass Bike Park has 25 afar of trails that bead about 3,000 vertical anxiety from the top of the Elk Camp Chairlift. With names such as Cowboy Coffee, Battle Axe, Dust Bunny, Valhalla and Valkyrie, the trails are a mix of abstruse and added abounding chargeless rides.
Walker is a biographer based in Boulder, Colo. Follow her on Twitter: @racheljowalker.
If you go
Aspen Meadows Resort
845 Meadows Rd.
833-798-4492
aspenmeadows.com
Located about a mile from city on 40 acres, Aspen Meadows has 98 Bauhaus-inspired suites, anniversary with floor-to-ceiling windows and a wet bar with a bore and microwave. The resort additionally has a full-service gym, art gallery, alfresco sculptures and fine-dining restaurant. Apartment from about $400 per night.
St. Moritz Lodge & Condominiums
334 W. Hyman Ave.
970-925-3220
stmoritzlodge.com
Among Aspen’s added affordable hotels, St. Moritz offers accepted apartment with kitchenettes and one- and two-bedroom condos. Rate includes breakfast, parking and happy-hour drinks and appetizers. Apartment from $75 per night.
The Agrarian Fig
315 E. Hyman Ave.
970-925-5160
thewildfig.com
This Mediterranean-inspired alehouse in city Aspen offers housemade pasta, seafood and an acutely breakable filet mignon. Entrees from $31.
Spring Cafe
119 S. Spring St.
970-429-8406
springcafeaspen.com
Eating beginning and advantageous is accessible at this accepted vegetarian cafe. Relying on beginning capacity and spices, the cooks adapt aperitive meat-free entrees, salads and smoothies. Don’t absence the appearance and augment enchiladas.
Lunch ranges from $6 (cup of soup) to $19.
Plato’s Restaurant
845 Meadows Rd.
970-544-7824
platosaspen.com
Farm beginning and bounded is the affair at this high-end restaurant breadth the dining allowance has all-embracing angle of breadth peaks. Apprehend Western twists on archetypal dishes, such as soft-shell backtalk served with a tomatillo abject or elk striploin with agrarian mushrooms. Entrees from about $20.
Aspen Alpine Guides
1280 Ute Ave.
970-925-6618
aspenalpine.com
Leave the abyssal to the professionals, who will additionally backpack a first-aid kit and added snacks. The aggregation guides mountain, alley and alluvium biking and offers accepted or customized itineraries. Full day ante from $475 per person, $75 per added person. Half-day $375 per being for aboriginal rider; added riders $55 per person.
Aspen Bikes
430 S. Spring Street
970-925-9169
aspenbikes.com
Rent an electric bike, banal up on baptize bottles and get bounded advice about trails, aisle altitude and accepted routes. E-bike rentals from $130 per day.
Coal Basin Ranch
4180 Atramentous Brook Rd.
970-510-6857
bit.ly/Coal-Basin-Ranch
After a acknowledged bendable aperture in summer 2020, Atramentous Basin Agronomical aims to access up beat to highlight the public/private affiliation that adapted a asleep atramentous abundance into a family-friendly recreational destination. The agronomical has a pump clue and abecedarian convenance area, additional a almost five-mile single-track loop. Free.
aspenchamber.org
— R.W.
The coronavirus communicable has disrupted biking domestically and about the world. You will acquisition the latest developments at washingtonpost.com/coronavirus
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