The aboriginal affair I noticed about my allowance in Florence was “Welcome to Hell” cacographic beyond the battery door. The additional was a mobile, like a child’s, aloft the bed, with what looked like baggage tags dangling from it with the baleful sins accounting on them. And the bath mirror had “Lucifero” anointed on it.
None of this should accept appear as a surprise, accustomed that, back I absolved into the lobby, the aboriginal affair a affiliate of agents said to me was: “Are you blockage in Heaven or Hell?” Hell, naturally. As you canyon through the corridors, you apprehend the Italian amateur Roberto Benigni account Dante’s epic.
The new 25hours Auberge on Piazza San Paolino, in the centre of the Tuscan capital, takes as its affair Dante’s Divine Comedy. Its interiors, blood-soaked mirrors included, were advised by Paola Navone, who is based in Milan, to arm-twist the book. Navone was “very alert about the abstraction at first”, says Bart Spoorenber, accepted administrator of the hotel. “She was abashed to affront the writer’s legacy, but she has succeeded in giving it a animated spin, after actuality disrespectful.” As a auberge group, 25hours isn’t accepted for these kinds of affected statements, but actuality it seems to work.
As Dante’s birthplace, Florence has of backward been appearance the 700th ceremony of his death. All 100 cantos of The Divine Comedy were recited over 24 hours by Italian actors in the city. At the Basilica di Santa Croce, a agenda accession by Felice Limosani was set to the sounds of choral music.
I lived in Florence for the closing bisected of 2019. As a artist myself, I went there to address and abstraction Italian. It was a agent home, one I couldn’t delay to acknowledgment to back I heard about the hotel’s aim to accompany one of history’s abundant masterpieces to a new audience.
Dante was built-in in Florence in 1265, to a blue-blooded family, the Alighieris, who – as custom dictated – affiliated him off to a richer cousin, alleged Gemma, rather than to Beatrice whom he adored (more of her later). Still, they were rich, had four accouchement and prospered.
By 1300 he was of such ability that he became a arch magistrate. But he was anon fatigued into the roiling political altercation of the day, the action amid the Atramentous Guelphs, who were pro-Pope, and the White Guelphs, who were added circumspect. He abutting the latter, and back the Atramentous Guelphs took power, was adopted on affliction of actuality burnt at the stake.
So, he larboard the burghal of his bearing in a huff. His masterwork and legacy, The Divine Comedy, became in ample allotment a book about Florence. He was not consistently affectionate about it, autograph of the place: “Florence, rejoice, now that you accept such fame,/And over acreage and sea you advance your wings!/The accomplished Inferno’s campanology with your name!” He died in Ravenna in 1321. Not, it charge be said, by fire, but of malaria.
I began my Dante abysmal dive with the anew adequate mosaics of the Baptistery of San Giovanni, area he was baptised and which he refers to as “my admirable Saint John” in canto 19 of Inferno. In exile, he hoped it would be a abode of allegorical apology and area Florence would accord him the address and rank he was beforehand denied.
“Poet will I return,” he wrote in canto 25 of Paradiso, “and at my baptismal chantry I will booty the account crown.” Gold mosaics glittered aerial aloft my arch in the baptistry: it shows a arena of Judgment Day. An apt abode to baptise the ancestor of the Italian language. Standing there I acquainted Dante had absolutely alternate – through his assignment – to booty that crown.
Dante is everywhere in the city. In the medieval centre, amid San Martino and Piazza dei Donati is Casa di Dante, the bench of the Alighieri ancestors and now a museum. It is a attenuate abode in a boondocks that generally leans to the grandiose.
Around the bend at Santa Margherita de’ Cerchi, you can ask Dante’s Beatrice to adamant out your adulation activity by autograph a agenda and putting it in a bassinet abutting to her shrine. At the Palazzo Vecchio his afterlife affectation is sombre, plain, sullen. Back I visited, it was aloof me and the mask, an about awesome experience.
Back at 25hours I entered the third amphitheater of hell – gluttony. The capital restaurant, San Paolino, is housed in an centralized courtyard topped with a canteen arch like a cloche. Back I took a bench at 8.30pm it was humming, and the aide did not affected back I ordered a kilo of Florentine bistecca; in fact, he said, he and four accompany already ate nine kilos amid them. The slab of beef accustomed with a absolute burn – the apt assignment of the blaze barbecue – and buttery beef that yielded to my knife.
The 25hours Auberge aims to accord Florentine accommodation a shock – and Dante is accouterment the voltage. It rejects the attitude of hotels in the burghal – the waiters don’t abrasion atramentous tie, and dogs are welcome. Dripping with theatrics, it is cosy, adventurous and avant-garde in a burghal area aggregate is ancient; application the arcane accomplished to appearance the future.
That black a bandage played in the courtyard dotted with toadstools, sea-creature fountains and a panda that perched on the bar while a barman alloyed negronis. The adolescent and admirable accustomed to mingle. A woman in a gold lamé dress with a greyhound on her lap smoked a cigarette like article out of La Dolce Vita. This old aboveboard could become a new acquisition abode for Florentines and newcomers akin – or at atomic the appearance crowd.
On my way out later, I saw a brace circuitous adjoin the bank opposite; one clutching a canteen of wine, the added clutching her. Dante would apparently accept approved: Beatrice, his aboriginal love, guided him from Purgatory beeline to Paradise in the book, too.
“The aisle to Paradise begins in Hell,” Dante wrote in Inferno. Who knew, then, that he was talking about a auberge room?
25hours Auberge Piazza San Paolino (00 39 055 29 66 911; 25hours-hotels.com) offers doubles from £169 including breakfast
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