In the age of cord-cutting and ad-free cable services, the accumulation ability acquaintance of sitting through television ads, those once-universal generational touchstones (WAZZAAA! Less filling! Where’s the beef?!), accept mostly gone the way of the Zune player. For me and allegedly abounding of us, it’s abandoned during football division that the inescapable, unfast-forwardable television bartering resurfaces as a cultural phenomenon. It is affectionate of nice back so abounding demographics can appear calm and be affronted by the aforementioned things.
Thus, it’s partly with a faculty of homesickness that I address that the “fancy like Applebee’s ad” absolutely has to go. I beggarly aloof attending at this thing:
This charge be the affliction television bartering produced in a generation. It’s allegedly the affliction ad back the Geico mandolin guys. Almost aggregate about it seems advised to accomplish me bullwork my teeth into dust, and I achievement I’m not abandoned back I say that anybody who fabricated it should be in prison.
The 30-second atom consists of a alternation of absolute “heartland America” types — nurses! newlyweds! wakeboarders …an old man fashioning a kayak out of a log! — dancing to a song in which a blandly handsome white man rap-sings the Applebee’s menu. The lyrics go article like this:
Yeah, we adorned like Applebee’s… on a date nightGot that Bourbon Street steak with the Oreo shakeGet some aerated cream… on the top tooTwo straws, one check, girl, I got youBougie like Natty… in the styrofoamSqueak-squeakin’ in the barter bed all the way homeSome Alabama-jamma, she my Dixieland delightAyy, that’s how we do, how we do, adorned like, oh
Those lyrics were an abnormally accessible pull, because accept it or not, this song absolutely already existed absolute of the Applebee’s ad. Written and performed by academic country man Walker Hayes (by which I beggarly he looks like an ex-athlete with a adequate activity in the ‘burbs who smiles a lot), “Fancy Like” spent eight weeks (and counting) at cardinal one on the Billboard Country Music charts. It racked up 50 actor plays on Spotify, and that was all afore Applebee’s absitively to about-face it into an annoyingly all-over ad. You apprehend that correctly: this motherfucker wrote an ode to Oreo all-overs on spec.
And again there’s the ad itself, which consists of a aliment montage intercut with a alternation of bodies dancing to the Applebee’s song. If I had to accept a affliction moment, I’d allegedly go with the leash backlash of the cowboy man base afraid to the communicable Applebee’s music:
It’s candidly difficult to put my feel on what it is that’s so infuriating about actuality danced at by a man in a cowboy hat, I aloof apperceive that I abhorrence it. Am I actuality detained?? Please stop dancing at me! I should allegedly altercate this with a therapist.
The song additionally has a aboriginal ballad that you don’t apprehend in the commercial, which is arguably alike added puke inducing:
AyyMy babe is bangin’She’s so low maintenanceDon’t charge no albino poppin’ entertainmentTake her to Wendy’sCan’t accumulate her off meShe wanna dip me like them chips in her Frosty
She wanna “dip” you? Like… chips into ice cream? I’m not actuality advisedly birdbrained actuality but I don’t alike get it. “Dipping” sounds courtly, yet chips dunked in a milkshake is acutely animal adumbration (are the chips your wiener? what anatomy allotment does the dairy artefact represent?). PG porn is consistently the grossest porn. Of course, in agreement of things that accomplish this song and bartering so insufferable, that band wouldn’t alike accomplish the top 10.
Once aloft a time, our corniest hip hop acts would name bead affluence brands in songs, allegedly in the hopes of freebies or advocacy deals. The Black Eyed Peas appear to mind. I anticipate Will.i.am is a able techno-futurist now so it seems to accept formed out for him. This abnormality has allegedly appear to country; abandoned now it’s not Bentleys and Gucci they’re name dropping, it’s Oreo all-overs and Frosties. It’s one affair to advertise out for a $200,000 car, it’s addition to do it for a fast accidental milkshake.
And yet, a guy autograph an ode to the Applebee’s card on blueprint and anon actuality adored with an Applebee’s ad accord is basically the admirer ideal of a avant-garde country song. The song is like a band block of corniness, which is perfect, because, I would argue, the abandoned absolute defining appropriate of avant-garde country is actuality corny. Hayes’ collaborator, a able hitmaker called Shane McAnally, about admits as much.
“Those aboriginal two curve of the choir — the accomplishment of ‘steak’ and ‘shake’ balladry — it actually gave me chills,” McAnally says with a laugh. “Because I apperceive how adamantine it is to accomplish article complete dumb.”
There you accept it: aural impaired is a feature, not a bug. (Incidentally I had a ablaze antic about the aftermost name “McAnally” actuality but my editor accounted it inappropriate).
Musically, there’s annihilation alike absolutely “country” about this song. No fiddles or lap animate guitars, no ambiguity exhausted or harmonies, etc. It’s basically a hip hop song with an 808 exhausted and scatty, rap-like rhymes, performed in a amalgam blaccent and redneck drawl, both delivered with according fraudulence. (Is it bombastic to point out that a guy singing about Applebee’s allegedly grew up in the suburbs? According to this contour his ancestor endemic a absolute acreage business). And yet “Fancy Like” is acutely a country song, based alone on the affect actuality expressed. A affect which goes, roughly, “don’t balloon to alcohol your Ovaltine.”
But, of course, abandoned in a actual claimed way. As Walker Hayes, tells it, Applebee’s had a actual appropriate abode in his adolescence memories, as the “splurge” restaurant.
“My dad could get fajitas, but none of us kids could,” Hayes told the LA Times beforehand this month. “We had to get, like, a quesadilla. So if you saw a brace of Bourbon Street Steaks broil by, you were like, ‘Ooh, what’s that table adulatory tonight?’”
Aw yeah. Remember that? Back we’d go to Applebee’s but could abandoned adjustment the quesadillas? We’d absorb all day laying on the hoods of our trucks, absent of one day actuality able to address that hit song about Bourbon Street Steaks and actuality able to assuredly allow that Bourbon Street Steak. Those were the days, huh?
Country has continued been a brand that admired paeans to half-remembered accumulation media belief — advanced accessible spaces and alone cowboys and all of that. I don’t apperceive if it’s infuriating or aloof sad that we so finer dead the baby boondocks in America that country musicians are now autograph adulation songs to alternation restaurants. If the boondocks dies, address a adulation song to the band mall. Let us all now accompany easily and sing the aria of homogenization.
This bartering is delivered like a affair canticle back aggregate about it is sad as hell. It makes me feel depressed, queasy, and old, in a way that has annihilation to do with Applebee’s food. After all, I grew up in the country bistro at characterless alternation restaurants myself (to be fair, “Applebee’s” absolutely has bigger balladry abeyant than “Golden Corral”), I affiance I’m not aloft it. In fact, Applebee’s, I will accomplish you a deal. I will eat at your restaurants every day for a ages if you stop arena this bartering forever. Please?
Vince Mancini is on Twitter. You can admission his annal of reviews here.
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