How To Make Croissants

Daniel Neman  |  St. Louis Post-Dispatch

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Harper Ho, York Dispatch

I said that I had apparent some recipes claiming you can accomplish croissants in aloof four hours. I scoffed, dismissively. Everyone knows the best croissants booty three canicule to make.

She said nothing. She said annihilation actual loudly.

You accept a way to accomplish croissants in aloof four hours? I asked.

She said she did. And back she is Helen Fletcher, the pastry chef at Tony’s in St. Louis, I took her seriously.

It turns out she knows how to accomplish croissants in aloof four hours. Actually, what she knows is how to accomplish laminated chef in four hours, and that is the best time-consuming allotment of croissants.

Laminated doughs are doughs for breath pastries and croissants that broil up into dozens of delicate, crisp, buttery layers. They about blast into a billow of pastry dust in your aperture back you chaw into them.

The acceptable way to accomplish them is to cycle out a area of chef and awning it with a cool-but-pliable area of butter. You afresh bend those bedding into thirds, like a letter, arctic it so the adulate does not melt, cycle it and bend it into thirds again, arctic it again, bend it into thirds, arctic and, if you accept the time and patience, bend and arctic one added time.

‘Rough puff’: A faster and easier way, with after-effects that are about as good, involves shredding arctic adulate over the antecedent area of chef afore folding and optionally air-conditioned several times (you don’t accept to air-condition it if you can assignment fast enough). This adjustment produces what the airy association on “The Great British Baking Show” alarm “rough breath pastry,” or aloof “rough puff.”

Fletcher’s adjustment is rougher than asperous — that is, it is added from the aboriginal abstraction of laminated doughs. But it is faster and easier and, it turns out, every bit as good.

Fletcher’s method, which she capacity in her blog Pastries Like a Pro, does not accommodate a attenuate band of adulate amid anniversary attenuate band of dough. In approved laminated doughs, the adulate steams as it cooks, and the burden of the beef armament anniversary band a little bit apart, consistent in beautifully aloof pastry.

Instead, she incorporates the adulate into the dough, as you would a air-conditioned pie crust. Because the chef is afresh bankrupt over on itself, as with acceptable laminated doughs, you still end up with all of the admirable layers that you would acquisition in added croissants and breath pastries.

She uses a aliment processor to save time, and saves added by freezing the chef and the pieces of adulate afore bond them in the processor. This footfall makes the chef — with the adulate in it — algid abundant that you don’t accept to air-condition it for an hour afterwards every time you bend it.

Generally, you can accomplish all of your folds afore the chef warms up to the point that you accept to air-condition it (the abstraction is to accumulate the adulate from softening; if it is soft, it won’t about-face to beef back it is heated). In the summer, or if your kitchen is hot, you may accept to air-condition it afore you can accomplishment all of your folds. But if the chef feels air-conditioned to the touch, you’re acceptable to go.

Speeding up: The longest allotment of authoritative acceptable croissants is spent artlessly cat-and-mouse for the chef to gradually advance a able-bodied acidity and a slight aroma to annul the richness. Fletcher cleverly saves two abounding canicule by abacus able-bodied and appealing buttermilk to the dough.

This adjustment uses absolutely a lot of aggrandize — one accomplished tablespoon, which is added than a packet — to get the croissants to acceleration quickly, and it calls for afire aggrandize (rapid-rise) for added speed. To accomplish them acceleration faster, she proofs them in an oven that is angry off but has a pan of hot water, which warms the oven aloof abundant for proofing.

And to accumulate the aerial croissants from afire on the basal as they cook, she uses what she calls the “double-pan” method. She places the baking area on top of addition baking area and cooks the croissants in the top third of the oven. Two baking bedding booty best to get hot than one, which gives the croissants time to baker to a aureate amber all over afterwards baking the bottoms.

The aftereffect is croissants that are artlessly spectacular, abundant bigger than you can get at a grocery abundance and apparently some bakeries. They’re light, they’re crisp, they’re aerial and they’re the absolute alloy of attenuate pastry and butter.

And they don’t booty three canicule to make. You can accomplish them in aloof four hours.

OK, maybe five.

Croissants

Yield: 16 servings

Note: If you can’t acquisition delicate buttermilk, acting accomplished buttermilk. Use 7 / 8 cup buttermilk and 1 / 4 cup baptize in abode of the baptize and dry buttermilk powder. Aggregate abroad charcoal the same.

1 cup additional 2 tablespoons water, about 75 degrees Fahrenheit

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 cups aliment abrade (420 grams or bare 15 ounces)

1/4 cup delicate buttermilk, see note

1 tablespoon afire yeast

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

11/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 batter (2 sticks) unsalted butter

1 egg, able-bodied beaten

Combine the baptize and oil. Set aside.

With the animate brand in place, add the flour, delicate buttermilk, afire yeast, amoroso and alkali to the basin of a aliment processor. Action about 5 abnormal to mix everything. With the apparatus running, cascade the aqueous bottomward the augment tube; action until a brawl forms. Continue processing for 30 abnormal added to aerate the dough. The chef should ride the brand and apple-pie the basin but abide soft.

Remove from the bowl. If it is hardly adhesive (and it may be), aerate by duke 5 or 6 times, afresh abrade into a disc 1 / 2 inch thick. Blanket in artificial blanket and arctic in the freezer for 60 to 90 minutes, or until the edges are actual close about 1 / 2 inch in all the way around. If application a marble rolling pin, put that in the freezer also.

Meanwhile, cut anniversary stick of adulate in bisected lengthwise and afresh cut anniversary of those pieces in bisected lengthwise. Afresh cut anniversary of these lengths into 8 pieces. Abode adulate in freezer to accumulate hard.

Remove the chef from the freezer. Divide the disc into fourths and anniversary fourth into 3 pieces. With the animate brand in the bowl, abode 3 pieces of chef in the processor with 1 / 4 of the butter. Action until the better pieces of adulate and chef are about the admeasurement of a pea. About-face out assimilate assignment surface. Echo in quick assumption 3 added times.

On a agilely floured surface, appearance the admixture into a rectangle about 6 inches by 4 inches. Agilely abrade the top of the chef and cycle it into a rectangle about 18 inches by 6 inches, befitting the ends as aboveboard as accessible and the abandon as beeline as possible. Use your easily to alike it out and accumulate the adulate from scooting out. Wipe the rolling pin frequently with cardboard towels and scrape the assignment apparent with a pastry scraper or a knife to anticipate the chef from sticking.

Brush the balance abrade from the chef with a pastry or basting besom so the pastry will appropriately adhere. Bend into fourths by bringing the top and basal ends of the chef to the center. Besom the balance abrade off again, afresh bend in half. About-face the chef so the bankrupt bend is to the left. This action of rolling, folding and axis the chef is alleged a “turn.”

Repeat rolling, folding and axis in this address afresh and afresh already added for a absolute of 3 turns. Because the adulate is arctic and the chef able-bodied chilled, it should be accessible to complete all 3 turns afterwards air-conditioned the chef amid turns. However, if necessary, abode the chef on a baking area and put it in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes, afresh proceed. With anniversary about-face the chef will become smoother but still with adulate visible. If desired, the chef may be air-conditioned amid turns.

After the third turn, abode the chef in a artificial bag and put in the freezer for about 30 account afore shaping. If the chef is not to be acclimated immediately, abolish from the freezer afterwards 30 account and air-condition up to 3 canicule afore using. Or the chef may be arctic afterwards achievement for 3 to 4 months. In this case, defrost 24 hours in the refrigerator afore using.

Fill a 9-by-13-inch pan bisected way with the hottest tap baptize available. Abode on the basal of the oven or the everyman shelf possible. Abode an oven arbor in the high third of the oven. Close the door.

Line 2 baking bedding with block paper. Divide the chef in half. Return bisected the chef to the refrigerator. On a agilely floured surface, cavity the chef with a rolling pin several times to accomplish it easier to roll. Cycle the chef into an 8-by-24-inch rectangle. If it is difficult to get it to 24 inches, cycle to at atomic 18 inches.

Cut into 4 according pieces. Cut anniversary of these rectangles in bisected on the diagonal. Anniversary allotment will accept one aboveboard and two acicular corners. Pull the aboveboard bend acclaim to the ancillary to alike up the triangle somewhat. Cycle it up lengthwise, addition the chef acclaim to amplify it added already the antecedent cycle is started. Abode on the able baking area and constrict the “tail” bend able-bodied underneath. Bend the ends bottomward and in against the centermost to anatomy the bow-shaped shape. Awning the rolls with a anhydrate and echo the action with the added bisected of the dough. Abode the trays in the oven and let affidavit until angled in size, about 1 hour.

Remove the trays from the oven and abolish the water. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. While the oven is preheating, besom the croissant with the baffled egg. Nestle anniversary pan into addition pan of the aforementioned admeasurement and broil in the high third of the oven for about 25 minutes, until aureate amber and close to the touch.

To accomplish ahead: Freeze afterwards broiled and absolutely cooled. To serve, abode anon from the freezer assimilate baking bedding and calefaction in a preheated 350-degree oven for about 10 minutes.

Per serving: 230 calories; 14 g fat; 9 g saturated fat; 44 mg cholesterol; 4 g protein; 21 g carbohydrate; 2 g sugar; 1 g fiber; 239 mg sodium; 25 mg calcium

Recipe by Helen S. Fletcher, pastrieslikeapro.com

How To Make Croissants – How To Make Croissants
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