Bright red chile oil sizzles on a propane-fueled flattop battercake beneath a pop-up covering in Houston’s Third Ward. Joseph Quellar swirls a dozen blah tortillas, one at a time, into the ablaze pool. He streams a bit added oil from a clasp bottle, again flips them all. Finely disconnected Oaxaca cheese, added than I expected, rains from Quellar’s duke assimilate the now red-tinted discs. The cheese begins to melt, again seeps over the edges of the tortilla to amber on the hot flattop. Meanwhile, Quellar has retrieved a block of smoked brisket from its braising liquid, or consommé, of pureed chiles, onions, garlic, and spices. He shreds it and places ample portions, still decrepit with juice, in the centers of the tortillas, which are now about blocked by cheese. Quellar adds a bit of chopped white onion and cilantro, again raises a bail abounding of consommé aerial aloft the battercake and splashes it bottomward on his composition, the aqueous baking and bleared as it streams assimilate the hot griddle. Quellar smiles—he’s putting on a show.
Using a wide, adjustable adjustable knife, a absolute apparatus for absolution the browned cheese and tortillas from the griddle, he scrapes about the edges, again grabs a additional spatula with his chargeless hand. The bushing is so acceptable that the taco won’t calmly fold, so Quellar places the aciculate bend of one spatula in the centermost of the bank of meat and cheese, and uses the additional to bend the tortilla assimilate itself. Afore it can be served, it sits on the battercake for a few added disturbing seconds, the flavors melding, cheese melting on cheese, basic the taco into a distinct solid structure. Quellar transfers it to a tray with a ancillary cup of consommé for dipping, and I assuredly get to aftertaste a smoked brisket birria quesitaco from the man who launched this conception into the Texas barbecue mainstream.
Joseph Quellar didn’t ad-lib birria tacos, or the smoked brisket taco, or alike the smoked brisket birria quesitaco that he’s now acclaimed for. He credits Houston chef Arash Kharat for the technique. But Quellar did jump-start the acceptance of this actual specific taco, which has become allotment of Texas barbecue culture. From Arlington to Olton, pitmasters are authoritative their own versions of the burning archetypal that Quellar aboriginal served in October 2019 at a accord banquet with chef Victoria Elizondo at Cochinita & Co. in Houston. Our taco editor, José Ralat, was in boondocks to try them at a consecutive JQ’s pop-up aloof three canicule later. He wrote about the taco, and appropriate that “If added pitmasters and taqueros are advantageous attention, they’ll alpha tinkering with birria application altered cuts of beef and ingredients.” Pitmasters took apprehension of the acceleration of birria but accept abundantly ashore with smoked brisket. (Quellar absolutely adds some smoked oxtail into his admixture for a richer consommé.) But admitting brisket birria tacos are Quellar’s best acclaimed dish, he’s doesn’t aloof comedy the hits at JQ’s Tex Mex BBQ.
Quellar was confined barbecue continued afore birria. Back he was still an oil acreage machinist, he started smoker meat in his backyard, practicing for barbecue competitions that he never concluded up entering. “I aloof knew I admired affable this stuff, and in my apperception I was a admirable champion,” he says. Back his wife Cindy was abundant with their daughter, she got so ailing of his barbecue that aloof the aroma of smoke fabricated her ill. He fabricated added barbecue than he had accompany and ancestors to eat it, so in 2017, he and Cindy captivated their aboriginal pop-up. Quellar was allotment of a fixed-gear bike club, which rode to a restaurant every week. One weekend, he appropriate the accumulation ride to a covering he and Cindy had set up. “I gave up one amusement for the other,” he says. He anchored his bike and anchored himself in advanced of the smoker for what anon became account pop-ups.
The aboriginal JQ’s Tex Mex BBQ menu, aggregate on Instagram, consisted of barbecue by the pound, salsas, and tortillas. The business steadily morphed into a pop-up adaptation of Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ in Austin, which mixes barbecue by the batter with sandwiches and tacos. Back he bare article appropriate for that acute 2019 dinner, he accomplished out to chef Kharat, who was alive at (now closed) Beaver’s in Houston. Kharat had aloof accomplished up an actualization at the Houston Barbecue Festival, area the smoked brisket birria tacos were a huge hit, and Quellar capital to accomplish a adaptation of his own.
Kharat said his afflatus for the bowl was simple. “We had to appear up with article that tastes great, looks great, but was additionally affordable for us [for confined at big contest and barbecue festivals],” he says. Kharat’s mother is Mexican but didn’t apperceive what he was talking about back he asked her about birria, so he did his research. He fabricated a few versions of smoked brisket braised in birria consommé. He anticipation the tacos bare a adhesive to accumulate them folded, so he added cheese. Despite the tacos’ acceptance throughout Texas, Kharat doesn’t accomplish them abundant anymore. Customers at Buffalo Bayou Brewing Co., area he’s the controlling chef, complained they were too messy. He still makes smoked brisket birria to serve on top of queso, and he finds places to use birria elsewhere. (Next week, he’ll barrage a 44 Farms hot dog on a bun topped with birria and served with consommé.) “He took it over, and he’s agitation it,” he says of Quellar. And seeing the quesitaco accretion all-inclusive acceptance beyond Texas in such a abbreviate time, Kharat says, is “kind of a appreciative ancestor moment.”
Joseph Quellar on the barbecue as Cindy looks on.
Photograph by Daniel Vaughn
One of JQ’s “lighter” taco offerings: smoked pork abdomen topped with avocado and serrano salsa.
Photograph by Daniel Vaughn
When Quellar launched the birria tacos, he knew anon that they would be his specialty. They’ve become the character of JQ’s, but Quellar has affluence added to offer. “Come for the birria, break for the carnitas,” he says. He smokes ample cubes of acclimatized pork accept for three or four hours, again braises the meat with orange juice, bay leaves, cinnamon, butter, amber sugar, and honey. He shreds it and uses the meat to body a carnitas taco agnate to the birria, bare the consommé.
They’re both stunningly aged tacos. The birria is richer, abnormally with all that gelatin from the oxtails. The tortilla is somehow both brittle and wet with juices at the aforementioned time. There’s smoke from the chiles and the beef, and browned $.25 of cheese to accommodate addition band of flavor. There’s a backpack to this taco, and that’s afore you dip it into the juice. “If I’m on your barbecue tour, I can’t be last,” Quellar jokes. I was throughly annoyed afterwards alone one taco, which is why he offers the “mixta plate” with one birria and one carnitas taco. The closing is lighter alone in allegory to the former. Each one is a destination-worthy barbecue taco on its own.
Quellar offers simpler barbecue tacos as well. Breakable slices of smoked brisket, smoked with oak and pecan in a Pitmaker basement smoker, are topped with pickled onions and a adhesive avocado and serrano salsa. He does the aforementioned with chiefly breakable smoked beef cheeks. Thick slices of breakable pork abdomen are so altogether smoked they blanket the spotlight at a contempo pop-up. The pop-ups, currently the alone way you can adore JQ’s Tex Mex BBQ, are usually captivated every weekend in Houston (check Instagram for details), and animate online preorders rather than walk-ups.
The acceptable account is JQ’s will anon be advance from folding tables, a carriageable flattop, and pop-up tents. Quellar, Cindy, and their business accomplice PJ McLaughlin will barrage a new aliment barter soon. They ordered it aftermost February, and are currently putting the finishing touches on it for the opening, planned for no afterwards than October. “I charge to get it finished, but I additionally charge to pop up because that’s my living,” Quellar says.
When the time comes, they’ll accept a accomplished lot added than tacos on the aliment barter menu. “I don’t appetite to be boxed in as a specialty taco thing. I’m barbecue first,” Quellar says. He wants to serve barbecue platters; ribs and enchiladas are his two admired foods, and neither are on his accepted menu. He additionally hopes to add tamales, billowy tacos, and chimichangas already the aliment barter is operating three or four canicule a week.
Does Quellar affliction that his business has become so carefully angry to one taco? “I can acquaint you I’m annoyed of authoritative it,” he jokes. Standing over a hot battercake outdoors in the Houston calefaction will accomplish anyone amend some activity choices, but Quellar is far added appreciative than exhausted down. “We fabricated a mark on the Texas barbecue scene,” he says. “And that’s absolutely adamantine to do.”
JQ’s Tex Mex BBQ
4816 N. Shepherd Drive, Suite A, Houston
Phone: 281-770-9056Hours: Friday 5–10, Saturday 2–10Pitmaster: Joseph QuellarMethod: Oak and pecan in a basement smokerYear opened: 2020
How To Make Carnitas – How To Make Carnitas
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